Knit Pattern, Sewn Up and Ready To Wear!

Do you want to see my new dress?

Now that it's done, I'm pretty happy with it.

I veered from the written directions a bit...

(of course!)

I cut the bodice on a size 10, and did the large bust adjustment adding a dart to the shoulder. I just left  the dart open and gathered the extra fabric into the shoulder seam, (where there would already be gathering)

Since I'm (ahem) thick waisted, I decided to just cut the waist band on the largest size (14) and take it in on the sides as needed. This lead to repeated pinning and stitching. FUN! (heavy sarcasm here ladies)

I also had to shorten the "short" version dramatically to get the dress up to my knees.

The pattern calls for elastic to be inserted through the seam allowances of the shoulders, and both top and bottom allowances on the waist band. I used clear elastic and sewed it directly to the seam allowances.

I added clear elastic to the seam allowances on the necklines and omitted the ties in the back.

(how many times can I say allowances?)

Here's the final result:

The Good:

I have a perfectly fit bodice!

The armhole doesn't pull forward because of my girls and the shoulders aren't too wide. The bottom of the bodice fits snug like it should. I think the neckline elastic worked well - I wore the dress all day yesterday-the shoulders stayed put and the front didn't gap.

I felt so silly getting this picture - but look at my armhole. 

Yay me!

My friend Tamra helped me fit the bodice, so I know she'll appreciate the picture!

So I'm happy with the dress, but there's plenty of room for improvement.

I cut both the waist band and skirt fabric out way too large.

This meant lots of adjusting on the band, PITA but not a huge deal.

However, cutting the skirt so big meant way too much fabric gathered around my body.

So instead of skimming and flattering, it adds width and looks kinda frumpy.

I will make it again with some more tweaking. and pockets.

Hack, Slash, Fill & Tape ...or just knit dress fitting in progress...

I love to wear dresses and skirts in the warmer months.

They're cool, comfy, and it makes me feel like a girl.

And even though we had snow on Monday, in my happy world May should be a warmer month.

Thus, I started to peruse the knit dress patterns...

I came up with this.

Perfect!

Cute, flattering and comfort.

What else could a girl want?

I dunno, how about a great fit?

Well, nothing will fit my girls right out of the envelope.

So this magnificent feat of engineering ensued...

This is the bodice after I have hacked, slashed, filled and taped.

(Gosh that sounds like a D list horror flick!)

I did a full bust adjustment, but instead of adding the usual 2 inches, we went with just 1

- it's a knit, and I don't want ease, I want stretch.

(Otherwise the girls will be saying "oh, hello!" to every passerby)

I've cut the fabric, pin basted and fit it.

All good so far!

Now I'm headed into the studio to get this baby sewn up.

I hope it comes out fitting and looking

Fantabulous

because I bought enough fabric to make this baby in 5 or 6 different colors.

Wish me luck!

Finding Comfort in Patterns

Okay. So after my, ahem, fitting issues... I needed to buy another copy of McCall's 5800.

Hancock's has their McCall's on sale for .99 - and that's a big deal 'cause patterns rarely go on sale for 99 cents anymore, a buck ninety-nine, sure. But a dollar? Yeah Baby!

I admit it.

 I sought comfort the the pages of the pattern catalogs, and then later, in the drawers themselves.

I came away a much happier girl, head full of ideas, heart full of bliss and a bag full of promises, eyes sparkling with the hope of a better fit...

Or maybe that was the glare of the fluorescent lighting... anyhoo...

Among the choices I made tonight,

M5717 - a trench coat - with *gasp* CUP sizing! Yay me!

It actually goes up to a D cup, but from watching the others in my group I've noticed these patterns require much less altering to fit a D+ cup than an average pattern.

Honestly, I probably wont touch this until next fall, but I don't care. I want it now.

And you understand, that's why I love you!

I had to get a jean pattern as well. I have enviously been watching the Selfish Seamstress brag blog about her amazing jeans and I oh-so-badly want a custom pair for myself! I asked Tamara a.k.a. my Fitting Goddess if we could tackle jeans eventually and she said yes - so now I'm prepared!

And lastly I picked up this simple shirt pattern.

It doesn't have the built in alterations for different cup sizes.

I don't even know if the drape-y neckline would look good on my girls.

But I love the back, view A.

And it's a knit, so that should be forgiving, right?

I'll be seeing the Fitting Goddess on Thursday, so I'll get her opinion on it.

After all, it was under a buck!

And, did I mention I really love the back?

And I also happened to buy the fabric to make it while I was shopping....

All pictures are from the McCalls website

Princess Seam Progress a.k.a. Full Blown Tantrum

Last night some friends and I met up for our monthly Fitting Group in Salt Lake.

This is the 3rd month meeting  that I have worked on my princess seam bodice.

And I know everyone is waiting with bated breath, wondering

"Just how did that princess seamed fitting thing work out for you?"

welll.....

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

wait for it....

.

.

.

.

.

.

It Didn't

This is what it looks like after I have thrown a tantrum.

Not pretty.

I have spent hours measuring, slashing, spreading, taping...

And not alone, either. Tamara, my Fitting Goddess has helped me every step of the way.

No matter how we adjusted it or what we did we couldn't get it quite right.

At the end of the night, we agreed it was possibly salvageable...

...but...

 ...we both just really wanted to shred it and start over.

So, that's exactly what I'll be doing.

Now, saying this, I realize it wasn't fair to just share a picture of my resulting tantrum.

So, I smoothed it back out (sort of..) and took another picture so you could appreciate all our efforts and understand why I'd like to set the friggin' thing on fire.

Isn't that crazy? There is more Swedish tracing paper than pattern tissue!

And this pattern is my size - really! All this for just a bust alteration.

I seriously intend to hit this hard and get it right next month...

because, well once I master the princess seam, I've got a few more patterns I want to take on...

 

McCalls 5800 is the pattern I am currently dueling with. I'm using view A currently, but might just opt for B's neckline this next go 'round. For 0598 I like the raglan sleeve and full skirt. CUTE!

I find a fitted bodice and flared skirt is the best way to balance my girls with my (boyish) hips. KWIM?

I can't wait to make them - and have them really fit!